From Pag to Paklenica: taste and tour the region of Zadar

The Zadar region’s secret ingredient is its ‘mare monte’ (sea and mountains) geography, situated between the Adriatic coast and the rugged mountains of Velebit. It is home to delicious local produce that is infused with salt from the sea and wild sage that grows between the grasses on the rural terrain. Spanning the northern reaches of Dalmatia, this area has an ancient Roman city, quaint medieval towns, national parks, a colossal mountain range and some of Croatia’s most spectacular islands.

The region is fast gaining recognition as a rarefied culinary hotspot, with two Michelin-recommended restaurants in Zadar city, Foša and Kaštel, and countless hearty seafood konoba restaurants — small places, often family owned and run, which serve special daily dishes made almost exclusively with local produce. However, it’s in the lesser-visited areas outside the historic, marble-paved city that visitors will find experiences that promise an authentic insight into the flavours and traditions that define this region.

1. Taste the celebrated cheese of Pag 

The island of Pag is renowned for its Paški sir — or Pag cheese. Positioned parallel to the Croatian mainland, Pag is a thin island characterised by its rocky terrain. The island’s location is in the path of an Adriatic wind known as the bura, which blows directly over the sea to the island. This unique climate contributes to the distinct flavour of Pag cheese, making it the their signature delicacy. Sheep roam freely here, grazing on the grass, rosemary and sage that are made more saline by the bura, which in turn enriches the flavour of the milk they produce that’s used to make Pag cheese.

Visitors to the island should explore the celebrated Gligora Dairy, where they can sample different ages of Pag cheese on a brilliant wine and cheese tour guided by knowledgeable Zadar locals.

2. Visit the historic salt pans of Nin

The city of Zadar was one of the wealthiest parts of the Roman Empire, and the neighbouring township of Nin, where vast salt pans were located, provided an extremely valuable commodity. Just a 20-minute drive from Zadar’s city centre, Nin’s old town is surrounded by these pans, which still exert an influence on the flavours of the local cuisine today. It’s a fascinating area, rich in heritage sites, home to the Solana Nin Sale Museum dedicated to showcasing the history of Nin’s salt production.

Visitors can embark on a 45-minute tour with one of the museum’s ‘salt storytellers’, which delves into the intricacies of the saltworks and the significance they’ve had in the region’s past and present. The local experts take you past the salt pools,  explaining everything from Roman architecture to the migrating birds in Nin’s Lagoon.

3. Taste the region’s ‘liquid gold’

Olives are incredibly important throughout the Zadar region, and the production of olive oil has a large influence on the region’s cuisine. It’s said Julius Caesar’s favourite olive oil came from Croatia, so sampling some is a must during a visit. Take a trip to the coastal village of Ljubač, framed by sweeping views of the (often) snow-capped mountains of the Paklenica National Park, to tour the OPG Mate Dušević family-owned olive oil production centre. Here, Mladen Dušević and his wife Marijana treat guests to tastings of their incredible olive oil, accompanied by locally sourced prosciutto and cheese.

Following this, visitors can take a 40-minute scenic drive through the Zadar countryside to the Agricultural Cooperative MasVin. Guests can check out the site’s wine cellar before indulging in an olive oil tasting platter such as the excellent ‘Dalmatian spirit’, which also features seven wines paired with a myriad of snacks.

4. Dine at an authentic rural feast

The farmers in the northern reaches of Dalmatia maintain millennia-old sheep-rearing practices passed down through generations. They allow their herds to roam freely, grazing on the rosemary and sage that flourishes amid the grassy flatlands and hillsides. When the time comes to eat the animals, traditional preparation methods used by the farmers create a unique and delicious taste.

Visitors can book an experience at Odžaković, a rural family inn surrounded by 360 acres of organic vineyards. Here, guests can learn about traditional cooking methods from recipes passed down by their family. Dinner is prepared on a traditional fireplace where beef and lamb is cooked in a peka (a wide shallow pot). The lamb, vegetables and Dalmatian spices are carefully prepared in the peka and left to simmer over firewood, during which time the flavours slowly intensify. While visitors wait, they can savour local wine served in a rustic and atmospheric environment, before finally tucking into a mouth-watering feast that’s ladled onto plates straight from the pot — a truly unforgettable experience.

5.  Savour the region’s exceptional seafood

A trip to the Zadar region wouldn’t be complete without trying at least one or two of the many delicious seafood platters of northern Dalmatia —  the smaller fish of the northern Adriatic are said to be more flavoursome than those in the Mediterranean. A fun way to do this is to rent a car or moped from Zadar and make the quick ferry hop to the stunning island of Ugljan, where the picturesque fishing town of Kali awaits. The area is surrounded by dazzling waters, and the shores are populated with locals who take their gastronomy very seriously.

Visitors should visit the Pierini Family’s Agrotourism Restaurant for its catch of the day (often prepared in a peka pot) and if a trip here can coincide with Kali’s Fish Festival, which takes place in July, or one of the newly launched Blue Fish Days in June, all the better, where amazing seafood dishes created by leading chefs can be enjoyed.