Sip your way along the historic Herzegovina wine route
Connecting Mostar with Trebinje, this route takes in the dramatic landscapes and vineyards of southern Bosnia and Herzegovina, with plenty of tipples to try along the way.
Story and photographs byNick St Oegger
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
A 20-minute car journey away, in the mountains behind the city, lies the village of Goranci, where, at Restoran Goranci, you can expect traditional meals such as slow-roasted veal and grah, a Bosnian bean stew, with potato bread and hurda (a local cheese curd).
Photograph by Nick St Oegger
If Mostar marks the start of the wine route, the end point is the country’s southernmost city, Trebinje (right), where the nearby karst fields, known as Popovo Polje, are considered some of the best agricultural terrain in the country, and where several wineries have their vineyards. The Church of The Holy Transfiguration of God (left) is one of Trebinje’s most striking buildings. Religion has played a key role in the region’s wine production — the nearby Tvrdoš Monastery is one of the largest wine producers in the country.
Photograph by Nick St Oegger (Top) (Left)
Meanwhile, just outside the city, Household Kovačević is a family-run business producing over a ton of honey every year from its nearly 100 hives, plus cheese, rakija (a Balkan fruit brandy) and other organic products.
Photograph by Nick St Oegger (Bottom) (Right)
Different varieties of honey are produced depending on where the bees have been living — honey produced in the forest has earthier pine tones, while honey from the fields has more of a herbal flavour.
Photograph by Nick St Oegger
Compared to the rest of Bosnia, the Herzegovina region is rich in agricultural land, owing to the good climate and mineral-rich soil. During spring and summer, it’s common to see roadside stalls selling the produce of this landscape in the shape of seasonal fruits and vegetables, direct from local farmers.
Photograph by Nick St Oegger
The town of Stolac and the surrounding region is home to a pasta dish known as stolački jarišti. It’s made with fresh sage, which is briefly submerged in sizzling butter. The pasta is then tossed into the mix together with sir iz mijeha, a local cheese fermented in a special sheepskin sack, as well as
Photograph by Nick St Oegger (Top) (Left) and Photograph by Nick St Oegger (Bottom) (Right)
Ivan Nizić walks among the newly planted vineyards on the grounds of the Škegro Family Winery, where the soil is mineral rich, but difficult to work with due to the rocky top layer.
Photograph by Nick St Oegger
At Nuić Winery, near Ljubuški, the vineyards are planted with three local grape varieties — blatina, žilavka and trnjak. Nuić is known for bringing the trnjak grape back from the brink of extinction and is one of only a few wineries producing a standalone wine from this variety. At the winery’s tastings, they serve a selection of local cheeses, salads and pastries. Orange Žilavka is one of Śkegro’s signature wines — also known as a skin contact wine, orange wines are made when the skins of white grapes are left on during the fermentation process, creating a distinct colour and flavour.
Photograph by Nick St Oegger (Top) (Left) and Photograph by Nick St Oegger (Bottom) (Right)
Published in Issue 24 (summer 2024) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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