How to spend a long weekend in Zagreb, Croatia

In the northwest of Croatia, Zagreb is a dynamic capital city that delights and dazzles with its breezy cafe culture, regal architecture and high-end gastronomy scene focused on seasonal, farm-to-table produce. The city sits on the banks of the Sava River, with the lush Medvednica Mountain providing the northern backdrop. Its laid-back centre boasts not only a wealth of gardens, parks and lakes, but also a notably independent spirit. It’s a vibrant hub resisting chain stores and nurturing local organisations and vendors. Residents and visitors alike frequent the many museums and galleries and pack out the eclectic festivals that take place throughout the year. With so much to see and do, here’s how to spend a long weekend in Croatia’s capital.

What to see

Zagreb’s city centre is packed with impressive architecture — from the opulent, pastel-painted art nouveau buildings that line Ban Jelačić Square to the magnificent gothic cathedral. A short but sweet funicular takes visitors up to Gradec, the city’s hilltop heart, where the indomitable Lotrščak Tower stands proudly, home to the Grič cannon that blasts daily at noon. The treasured 13th-century St Mark’s Church is another standout in Gradec — its tiled roof featuring the blue, red and white motifs of the Croatian coat of arms and Zagreb’s castle emblem.

There are plenty of coffeeshops around the city in which to refuel — among the pick is Botaničar on Lenuci’s Horseshoe, a group of U-shaped parks, squares and a botanical garden that’s home to various statues, galleries and attractions. For another nature hit, take the cable-car up to Sljeme, the peak of Medvednica Mountain to the north of the city — and the perfect place for a woodland walk. Locals love to spend summer evenings relaxing with a drink by the idyllic Lake Jarun or sampling the libations on offer in the city centre’s chic cocktail bars — A’e Craft Bar has an incredible view of the cathedral and makes a mean Moscow mule.

What to do

In addition to the unmissable ethnographic and contemporary art institutions in the city centre and Novi Zagreb, below the Sava River, Zagreb is home to a variety of exceptional museums that range from long-established collections of art and artefacts to the more quirky and unusual. Full of personal stories, the Museum of Broken Relationships houses items donated by the public that’ll make you laugh and (probably) cry. The Museum of Illusions is, as the name suggests, packed full of entertaining trompe-l’oeil optical illusions to examine. Or, take a tasting tour through the history of the world’s favourite sweet treat at the Zagreb Chocolate Museum, which also tells in the story of beloved local brand Kraš.

Where to eat

Ivana Tkalčićeva Street, off Ban Jelačić Square, is the city’s prime destination for al fresco dining, where you can find a range of international restaurants serving everything from Greek to Sri Lankan fare. But for truly authentic Croatian cuisine, Restoran Stari Fijaker is the place to go — this old-school spot is one of the last in the city centre that serves delectable, traditional dishes such as pašticada (braised beef in sweet and sour sauce).

Gastronomy-focused travellers will want to book a table at fine-dining spot Dubravkin Put, which presents plates so beautifully crafted it almost seems a shame to tuck in. Equally as high-end, but remarkably down to earth, the team at Sopal bring their concept of ‘fun dining’ to haute cuisine with a tasting menu that spins a contemporary take on traditional local dishes. For delicious vegan and vegetarian options, head to Zrno Bio Bistro. In addition to heavenly stews and soups, the locally sourced, organic menu includes a tasty vegetarian burger — a vegetable and tofu patty on a chickpea pancake served with marinated zucchini.

When to go

Zagreb comes alive in the summer with an assortment of exciting art and performance events, concerts, festivals, food pop-ups, film screenings and more — including electronic music festival, Let The Music Be Free, and colossal rock festival, InMusic, which take over the grounds of Lake Jarun in June. Temperatures soar up to an average of 28C in peak summer, so aim to visit early or late in the season and plan to spend some time cooling off lakeside. Autumn in the capital is relaxed and breezy while maintaining a temperate climate averaging 22C in September and 10C in November, providing the perfect conditions for long walks and hiking up to Sljeme.

Visit Zagreb during winter for a slew of colourful Christmas events, which are sure to get even the grinchiest travellers in a jolly holiday mood — the most notable is Zagreb’s Advent, with the city’s Christmas market touted as one of Europe’s best. Although temperatures are chilly this time of year, with an average high of 4C in January, snow can turn the city into a winter wonderland. In spring, the capital’s parks and gardens bloom beautifully with fragrant flora, and the dazzling Festival of Lights marks the arrival of the season with neon installations and sculptures glowing around town. The city is usually sun-drenched, too, with pleasantly fresh temperatures averaging between 12C and 22C from mid-March until May.