Nanushka Spring 2022 Menswear

Having reconnected with nature while spending lockdown in her country home, Sandra Sandor shifted her focus back to the city for spring. The designer, who is pregnant with her first child, based this collection, called Harmónia, on memories of her upbringing in Budapest. In keeping with that theme, Sandor played with Hungarian crafts and symbolism in her lineup. “Taking inspiration from our own genuine surroundings and real environment just felt right to do this season,” explained design director Ahinaa Zita Perjési, who walked Vogue virtually through the collection in Sandor’s stead.

Sandor and team delivered the cool girl and guy essentials they are known for by tweaking their core tailoring and knitwear to speak to current trends, like workwear and cutouts. The use of lingerie buttons for reveals was especially effective; and a men’s set in terrycloth was unexpected in a good way. But what elevated this offering from solid to something extra was the way Sandor translated local practices in ways that felt personal. The “tablecloth” pieces with Kalotaszegi embroidery was airy and connected to the everyday. More mystical were the printed and knit looks with traditional kopjafa iconography, including flowers, crescent moons, and stars (representing wife, young woman, and mourning, respectively) to which were added brand markers, like a gothic N for Nanushka. There was another kind of personal connection at play in this collection as well: The trench with the removable storm flat was made in collaboration with the most recent participant in The Nanushka Design for Life Mentorship Program, Abhijeet Kabur.