SPORTMAX Pre-Fall 2022

The usually conceptually-minded design team at Sportmax went for metaphors and tales for pre-fall. To obliquely address the gender-circular conversation that is one of today’s fashion subtexts, the seafaring legend of The Sailor and The Mermaid seemed to fit the bill. In Sportmax’s overturned narrative, the one-way seduction of a sailor bewitched by a mermaid’s enchantments was replaced by a new equilibrium, a sort of homeostasis between the yin and the yang.

The tension between opposites—nautical uniforms and classic sailors’ staples running counter to sinuous, liquid silver-sequined shapes—gave the collection a middle ground between polarized style extremes. Of-the-moment masculine tailored outerwear, big-shouldered and oversized, alternated with a series of shimmering backless dresses, roomy blazers, and turtlenecks turned into fitted short tunics.

The collection had an edgy l’air du temps feel. Extra-flared denim bell bottoms were patchworked from different indigo textures; wide-legged slacks pooled around the ankle, covering sturdy wedge clogs ot thick-soled creepers. Pinstriped tailored skirt suits played on volume and asymmetries; black leather was studded with metallic eyelets, as in an oversized trench coat worn over a midriff-baring top and matching miniskirt. The offer signaled a slightly more radical direction for Sportmax, exploring challenging new territories out of its comfort zone.