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Menswear
14 posts
Saul Nash Spring 2024 Menswear
On a steamy afternoon in London, a man in a red knitted scuba-suit walked out onto a sandy runway installed at the ICA. “The collection this season is titled Intersections,” said Saul Nash before the show. “It looks at intersections between my parents’ cultures. Looking at it by the sea, and open waters.”Along the anatomically-functional
4SDesigns Fall 2022 Menswear
Look around the menswear collections for fall 2022 and you will find an astonishing number of coats. Great coats! Beautiful coats! But underneath all that layering is in many instances suiting, and underneath that suiting, well, the clothes that guys will wear every day don’t really seem to matter. Where are the new ideas for…
Kolor Fall 2022 Menswear
In the film shot with this lookbook, the glass tunnel runway was flanked on each side by 40 men and women dressed in the soberly symmetrical, charcoal-suited attire of the commuter. Alongside these blurrily monochrome scurrying extras, the model Kolor wearers resembled parrots amongst pigeons.Junichi Abe’s clothes do indeed offer color, and of a kind…
Loewe Fall 2022 Menswear
There’s something so obnoxiously buzzwordy about ‘the metaverse’—the marketing machine’s new mantra—you almost feel sorry for the science fiction writer who coined it three decades ago. When Jonathan Anderson referenced it in his J.W. Anderson collection last week, he said, “I was using it more in an ironic way. The idea that it doesn’t really…
KidSuper Fall 2022 Menswear
KidSuper’s fall 2022 short-form buddy movie is a fun 16-ish minute dive into the world of Colm Dillane, featuring a punchy cast including Princess Nokia, DJ Jazzy Jeff and Marc Jacobs. Dillane met Jacobs when they intersected through the LVMH Prize and, said the less-seasoned designer, “clicked a little bit.” Jacobs turns up for the…
Jil Sander Fall 2022 Menswear
An enormous lantern was suspended between the vaults and pillars of the American Cathedral on Avenue George V like a big, bright sun casting its rays over Jil Sander’s models. Serenaded by an intensely elated soundtrack by Panda Bear and Animal Collective, the mood was quite hippie. There’s always been a puritanical quality to the…
Sex, God, and garments: GmbH’s Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby cover all the important material. Let’s start with the garments. Banally, and separated from the context of this collection, the tailoring was excellent. Take away the wonderful and brand-identifying regal strapping and fur and we were left with a soft 1.5 breasted jacket with a…
Kiko Kostadinov Fall 2022 Menswear
“It’s not too personal,” says Kiko Kostadinov of his fall 2022 menswear collection. “It’s a simple idea.” Both statements are true, but they belie the sense of self and thought present in the designer’s new offering. Officially called Xolo, after the Mexican hairless dog (a name used on account of the show being staged at…
OAMC Fall 2022 Menswear
“We started in a more clinical way and we ended up exploring a more natural feeling,” said Luke Meier, summing up the spirit of his OAMC fall collection, striking an attractive balance between the label’s tailored workwear roots and a softer, sensitive aesthetic.Meier looks at nature as the epitome of the complex yet perfect equilibrium…
Ami Fall 2022 Menswear
Halfway through a preview before Ami’s fall show, designer Alexandre Mattiussi’s mother arrived backstage. “Salut cherie,” she embraced her son, dressed in head-to-toe black Ami tailoring and toting the hit Déja-Vu bag, a dead ringer for Isabelle Huppert and very chic with it. The appearance of Mattiussi’s mom chimed with the family atmosphere backstage. If…